The story behind diamond cut
August 28th, 2008. Published under Pastor Geneve Investing, Pastor-Genève, Pastor-Genève bvba. No Comments.
By: Mithun Rao
There was a time when cutting and polishing a diamond was considered sacrilege. It was believed that cutting and shaping the precious stone would devoid it of the supernatural power that it was believed to posses. The diamond was considered a prestigious stone and only rulers and even they were not allowed to tamper with the rough stone that was found naturally.
It is interesting to know that India was the only source of diamonds, way back in fourth century BC and it was only after Alexander the Great’s conquests that the diamond was introduced to the West after limited trade began between the East and the West. Even at this time, the diamond was not considered to be as expensive as the ruby or the sapphire.
Gem cutters started applying their skills on the diamond only in the 1300’s. By this time the trade had opened up between India and other trading centers like Venice and the Europe saw its first cut and polished diamond around 1380AD. With the trade various methods of polishing and cutting the diamond were also shared between the countries. However, travel between the East and West was still not easy and the journey was arduous and took a long time. The trade routes opened up even more when Vasco da Gama traveled from the Cape of Good Hope to India by Sea. Within months of the discovery of this route cities like Bruges, Antwerp, Amsterdam and Venice started seeing large number of diamonds from India in their markets. Roughs from India were transported to these cities that fed Europe’s unending hunger for the gem.
The diamond cutting of these times was far less sophisticated as compared to the brilliance that we see today. This is obvious when one observes antique jewelry and antique settings. Many of these simple cuts were later adapted to the more modern cuts over time and records of the methods used can only be obtained from paintings, diaries and catalogs.
The journey of the diamond cutting industry, as we know today, starts with the point cut and ends at fancy brilliant cuts. The point cut was the first cut that we are aware of today and it was the most popular cut in the fifteenth century. The cut mimicked the rough octahedral shape of the natural diamond and this was accomplished by the use of stationary polishing surfaces covered with diamond grit and olive oil. To minimize the heat generated due to the friction required in the process, olive oil was used.
In the late 1400’s the table cutting style made its appearance. The top part of the natural octahedral shape was cut using the same tools present earlier ‘a stationary cutting surface with diamond grit and olive oil. The end result was that of a polished square facet that looked like a tabletop. Some cutters removed the lower part of the octahedral shape to give it a square shape called the culet. The kind of a table cut looked like a square within a square when viewed from the top. Since the table top cut improved the reflective index and resulted in higher brilliance and fire, this proportionate cut found a lot of appeal among consumers during the Renaissance period. This cut ruled the diamond industry for the next couple of centuries and there were numerous variations like rectangles, tapered shapes and lozenges.
After a couple of centuries of the table cut rule, the rose cut made its appearance and continued to dominate the scene till the nineteenth century. This cut was not conceptualized for octahedral diamonds but a cut that aided in producing the largest cut diamonds from flattened roughs. The rose cut has flat bottoms and triangular facets that become a point towards the top. Though the cut gives a high level of brilliance, the fire that this cut allows is not too high. Creative cutters have created variations of this cut too and we have the double rose and the briolette.
The seventieth century saw different kind of cuts coming onto the market. The seeds of the modern brilliant cut were sown when miners found some crystals in the river gravel in Minas Gerais in Brazil. Initially the miners did not realize that the crystals that they were using to keep score in card games were actually diamonds. It was only after someone familiar with diamonds pointed it out to them that they became aware of the value of their find.
With resources drying up in India, this deposit was very welcome and Brazil became the key source of rough diamond for the diamond cutters in Europe. Diamonds from Brazil were used to create the first brilliant cuts and thus was born the old mine cut, a cushion shaped cut with a deep pavilion, high crown and large culet. Even though the number of facets in the old mine cut are similar to the modern brilliant cut, this first cut did not give as much brilliance since the pavilion was deeper.
The modern brilliant cut came onto the scene after more than 500 years of experimentation. This cut was the first cut that brought out the true brilliance of the diamond that it is capable of. A round brilliance has a round girdle outline, symmetric triangular and kite-shaped facets. The table is more than 50% of the girdle diameter and a culet that is hardly noticeable.
The earliest of the modern brilliant cut can be traced back to the 1800’s. Even though Henry Morse from Boston discovered this cut earlier, it was rejected by the cutting establishment and stuck to the old mine and European cuts. It was only in 1919 when Marcel Tolkowsky published these cuts did they become popular. Though many cutters who worked on large high quality roughs adopted Tolkowsky’s suggestions, there were others that used variations of this for the smaller diamonds intending to gain the maximum weight of the diamond from the rough. Other variations also made an appearance and thus were born shapes like marquise, cushion, pear and oval.
The contemporary cuts allow for higher levels of artistic flair and the roughs can be cut and polished based on minimum loss due to cutting and polishing. With the popularization of the brilliant cut, many fancy brilliant cuts started coming into the picture. It was the success of the round brilliant encouraged cutters to try out other shapes along with the brilliant cut. The triangular brilliant, ‘Trillion’, developed by Leon Finker in the 1960’s became so popular that any people started referring to any triangular brilliant as the ‘Trillion’. Milton and Irving Meyer were marketing their own version at this time and they called it the ‘Trilliant’ and registered the name. The phrase ‘trillion’ had become so generic in nature that they changed the name later to Trielle in 1992.
Other brilliant cut shapes like rectangle and square brilliants were also produced. Henry Grossbard patented the first rectangular brilliant and called it ‘Radiant’. The use of this cut resulted in a loss of 40% of the rough as compared to the 50% lost in the case of a round brilliant. Other brilliant cuts like the square brilliant also came on the scene. Ambar Diamonds, Inc. developed and patented a brilliant square cut called the Quadrillion.
Fancy brilliant cuts allow for minimum loss in a rough diamond. They are also very useful in manipulating and perfecting the color of the diamond when seen from the face up. These days the diamond cutting industry makes the use of modern computer software and technology to develop new cuts that can optimize the size of the diamond. The round brilliant has been perfected further with the use of technology that can standardize the production process to create symmetrical, proportionate and proprietary diamond cuts.
Some marketers and manufacturers tried to promote what they called the ‘ideal cut’ in the 1990’s. This was marketed as the cut that was ideal for a specific diamond to provide minimum loss, maximum brilliance and fire. Though the concept was welcomed by researchers of the diamond cut industry, there was no proof that the ‘ideal cut’ was really ideal. The technology allows the customer to see the various cuts and how each one compares to the other. However, diamond critics claim that there is more to a diamond than the cut alone and that there may not be one ideal cut that fits all.
Even though history has seen various cuts that have come and gone and technological and creative expertise in this field, there is no doubt about the fact that what really matter in the end is the perceived beauty of the diamond by the buyer, the wearer and the onlookers!
Lab Created Diamonds, Simulated Diamonds And Manufactured Diamonds Review
March 24th, 2008. Published under Pastor Geneve Investing, Pastor-Genève, Pastor-Genève bvba. No Comments.
Author: Robert Joseph
There has been a great deal discussion about lab-created diamonds. Along with that talk, there is much misinformation and perplexity. The jewelry lover, who is interested in realizing the huge savings and aesthetic beauty that simulated diamonds offer, is often bewildered by the manufactured diamond industry jargon and available options. This article will categorically break it down in easy-to-understand terms so that anyone can make an intelligent decision when choosing a simulated diamond.
GEM MATERIALS: 99% of all lab-created diamonds sold worldwide are polycrystalline on a molecular level. The differences are fundamentally in the technical aspects of manufacturing, cutting, and polishing. Think of it this way—all coffeemakers are made of plastic, steel, and glass, the differences are how these materials are designed and implemented. Higher quality coffeemakers make a better tasting cup of coffee. Higher quality manufactured diamonds are in line with mined diamonds.
QUALITY VARIANCES: It seems like grade variations are made out to be a more complex lab-created diamond issue then it really is. Once boiled down, there are three primary grades of simulated diamonds—high, medium, and low. For the jewelry shopper it should be noted that the quality of setting goes hand-in-hand with the quality of the gemstone. Those that sell manufactured diamond jewelry off point-of-purchase displays in the costume jewelry sections of discount stores use low quality or scrap stones that are not gem quality, and have disco ball or murky look. Those that sell manufactured diamond jewelry on the TV shopping channels—which is generally with a sterling silver or a micro-thin layer of gold plated over silver (Vermeil [pronounced ver-may]) settings—use medium quality stones not of gem quality. Those that sell solid 14K gold or solid platinum settings, as a rule, use the highest gem-quality man made gemstones that replicate mined diamonds.
PRICING: Low grade stones are sold in bulk to costume jewelry makers and are often glued on electroplated settings. This jewelry is fine for children, where loss risk is high, and usually retails for less than $15 per item. You will find medium grade stones primarily in sterling silver jewelry that sells for under $100 per item, settings and stones. Medium grade simulated diamonds can be distinguished by the naked eye as not being mined diamonds. High grade gemstone quality lab-created diamonds, undistinguishable by the naked eye from mined diamonds, are found mounted on settings of solid 14K gold and platinum. This is considered to be fine jewelry, with the best quality gemstones selling for under $100 per carat for the gemstones alone. Manufactured diamonds that sell for over $100 a carat are not higher quality than those that sell for between $80 and $100 per carat.
RECOMMENDATIONS: If you are buying for someone that is likely to lose the jewelry, there is no reason to spend any more than you have to, and Wal-Mart will do just fine. On the clearance rack you can even pick up some jewelry for less than $5 per item. If you buy simulated diamonds set in sterling silver, expect decent stones, but they will fool few into thinking they are mined diamonds. Also, your fingers are likely to turn green or black in response to a chemical reaction, not with the silver per se, but with the nickel/copper alloys in sterling silver. With any plated settings, gemstones are low to medium grade, and the plating will eventually chip off, particularly around the edges.
Diamond Rings
September 18th, 2007. Published under Pastor Geneve Investing, Pastor-Genève, Pastor-Genève bvba. No Comments.
By: M. John
Diamond is a mineral and is the hardest known substance to man, but one of the simplest being composed of carbon. Throughout history diamonds have been associated with mystical power, great beauty and more recently great value and wealth. The word comes from the Greek meaning ‘adamas’ meaning unconquerable and they have been worn throughout the ages by men going into battle as a sign of strength, courage and invincibility.
They are not as liquid as traditional investments. Searching the globe for the most exquisite and rare diamonds has traditionally been the preserve of the fantastically rich and famous, but apparently, things are changing. We were very fortunate to acquire a selection of coloured diamonds.
Most diamonds still originate from central and south Africa although there have been other significant finds in Canada, Brazil, Australia and the biggest diamond mine is in Siberia. The diamond market is very much dominated by De Beers to control the supply and price of diamonds across the world by what some would say are monopolistic practices.
Some of the worlds largest and most valuable diamonds are in the Tower of London in the British Crown Jewels.
Diamonds are indeed very desirable objects and are worn throughout the world set in precious metals in many different types of jewellery. One of the most common pieces of jewellery is still the ladies diamond engagement ring and many women still choose to have a diamond as a symbol of love to wear on their engagement finger whether it be the traditional solitaire or three diamonds which some believe signifies ‘I love you’. Diamonds have always been associated with romance and legend and it is said that Cupid’s arrows were tipped with diamonds because they possess a magic that nothing else has equalled.
Diamonds vary enormously in price according to size and quality so when choosing diamond rings it is important to consider your budget.
Diamonds are graded according to the 4 c’s which refers to cut, clarity, colour and carat. The cut of a diamond is very important as it affects the reflective qualities, which will determine the brilliance of a diamond and how it looks to the naked eye. Cut should not be confused with shape such as pear, emerald, round etc.
Clarity refer to the number of flaws known as inclusions in the stone and the stones which have fewer inclusion are more highly prized and valuable because they have greater brilliance. Remember though that a diamond doesn’t have to be flawless to look absolutely stunning.
Diamond colour usually refers to whiteness or colourlessness in white diamonds with those with least colour being more valuable because of their ability to pass more light giving more sparkle and fire. Coloured diamonds do occur naturally ranging from blue to green but they are rare and very expensive.
How to choose a Diamond
September 18th, 2007. Published under Pastor Geneve Investing, Pastor-Genève, Pastor-Genève bvba. No Comments.
By: Mark
Tips to collect a diamond.
Clarity
The greater a diamond’s clarity, the more brilliant, valuable and rare it is. Virtually all diamonds contain identifying characteristics, yet many are invisible to the naked eye. Under the scrutiny of a jeweller’s 10X magnifier, natural phenomena called inclusions may be seen. These are nature’s birthmarks.
The number, colour, type, size and position of the birthmarks affect a diamond’s value. Major inclusions can interfere with the path of light that travels through a diamond, diminishing its brilliance and sparkle and therefore its value.
Carat
Carat is the measurement of a diamond’s weight.
One carat is equal to 0.2 gram or 100 points. Because large diamonds are found relatively infrequently in nature, diamonds’ worth go up almost exponentially with their weight.
Colour
Diamonds can be classified into “colourless diamonds” and “fancy coloured diamonds”. Colourless diamonds are graded by colour, starting at D and continuing through the alphabet. Truly colourless stones, graded D, are treasured for their rarity and value, and are highest in quality. Fancy coloured diamonds in well defined colours that include red, pink, blue, green and canary yellow are particularly rare and very highly priced.
Shape
Diamonds are cut in many fancy shapes. As the shape and distribution of inclusions vary with each raw stone, diamonds are cut into different shapes in order to avoid flaws and to minimize the wastage. People often choose different shapes according to their own preferences. The following are the most popular shapes in the market:
Round Brilliant
The round brilliant cut diamond is by far the most popular shape, and accounts for about 3 out of 4 diamonds purchased today. It is designed to produce the greatest brilliance and reflection of light.
Princess
Princess cut is the second most popular shape on the market. Its table appears as a square-like rectangular shape. The pavilion of princess shape is cut according to that of the round brilliant, which increases the brilliance of the diamond but also increases the use of materials.
Oval
The Oval shape is an extension of round brilliant, it looks larger than its actual size because of the elongated shape. Rings set with oval diamonds are suitable for ladies with small hands or shorter fingers.
Heart
Heart shape is a symbol of romance. It bears some similarity to the pear shape. To avoid significant inclusions, the cutter often prefers cutting the heart shape to the pear shape. This shape is seen frequently in pendants, but is suitable for most any purpose.
Emerald
The Emerald cut is not a brilliant cut, but is called a step cut. Step cuts are comprised of larger facets, which act like mirrors. Because of the angle, size and shape of the facets, the emerald cut shows less brilliance and fire than the brilliant cut diamonds. However, the emerald cut stone reveals a classic and aristocratic elegance and beauty not seen in other cuts. Because of the open and large nature of the facets, it is highly recommended that you consider staying at higher colour and clarity grades.
Marquise
An elongated shape with 2 pointed ends just like the eye of a horse. This special shape is especially suitable for people with unique style.